for this project.
The Authentic Reborn Crease Shader #2 paint brush is one of those seldom understood but exceptionally useful brushes. When I designed this brush for Authentic Reborn I wanted something that would allow me to go beyond simply filling creases with paint. I needed something that would allow me to create a gentle red crease effect that extends well beyond what is just seen as a line in the fold of the skin - I want that "rounded" effect you'll see in the picture below. I've been studying my baby granddaughter's little wrinkles and this is exactly how they present themselves.
A feathering Mop Brush is perfect for creating the ideally feathered edge of a shadow in the crease of a baby's skin. With creases and wrinkles all you really want is the shading to enhance the crease.
But... from what I've found while fooling around in my workshop, the #2 Crease Shader takes the shading realism to a whole new level! Use it anywhere that an expanded shadow is desirable, such as at flex points (like the elbow and wrists), around the eyes, and in the ears.
Using Shading to Enhance Realism
Add extended shading to any region you want to enhance. This isn't just referring to the basic crease and wrinkle shading, but taking it another step to give more depth where there is not much depth. Here is what I've done...
No other paint has been applied to the doll - only the Crease & Wrinkle paint.
You can see I decided to enhance the areas around the upper and lower eyelids (FYI: no other painting has been applied to this doll - ONLY the shading). I also enhanced the slit between the eyelids as well. I added shading to the wrinkle in the bridge of the nose and around the nostril. I think it looks like the baby could open its eye any minute! The Crease Shader allows me to "pull" the shadow out from the crease to a point where it fades away completely. You simply can't do this with a mop brush. The mop
brush is designed to keep a shadow where it is and to feather and soften it at that point only.
Remember: not every crease should have extended shading so for those creases don't use a Crease Shader, use your #4 Feathering Mop as normal.
In the photo above you can see the difference between extended shading and standard crease and wrinkle treatment.
You can see how the extended shading wraps around the curves and contours of the baby's features. These shadows are dramatic and fade out completely beyond the point of accentuation.
Now look at the right side of the Enhanced Style versus Traditional Style photo and you can see there is just enough shadow to make the creases stand out and be noticed (this is traditionally the way all crease and wrinkles are accentuated by reborners). There are many places on the baby where this is all the shadow that you need and you won't want to create extended shading. In that photo though, I definately prefer the extended shadows created by the #2 Crease Shader.
The photo above is another place where I experimented with extended shading. The chin is really not a crease but it is an area given to shadow so I used the #2 Crease Shader and added extended shading. That brings out the roundness of the baby's double chin and enhances the shape of the chin itself.
Here's a view of the chin shadow from the bottom. You can see the shadow extending from the bottom of the chin back. Don't bring the shading any further forward than the very bottom of the chin.
Paint a real thin line into the bottom of the widest wrinkle here. Notice that I have kept the Crease & Wrinkle paint well within the edges of the fold. I used the #4 Feathering Mop to soften the edges and create the narrow shadow needed for this wrinkle to stand out. Notice that the mop did not pull the paint out of the wrinkle as the #2 Crease Shader would have. When I want to do wrinkles the Feathering Mop seems to be the better choice.
The Crease Shader has high tension bristles which are perfect for pulling paint away from a fold or shadow point. The Feathering Mop has low tension fibers which move across the surface more easily thereby pulling less paint allowing for more fine line shadows as seen in the picture here.
The last place that I tried the Crease Shader was the ear. I used the #7 Crease & Wrinkle Brush again to highlight the areas where I wanted shadows. I was really careful this time to lay down very thin lines of paint. Too much paint would make the shadows look like bruises! I can always heat set the ear with too little paint and go back to add more.
Notice that I avoided pulling the shading up and over the ear lobe. I moved the Crease Shader in a one-sided pulling direction that prevented any shadow from spilling over into the rim around the ear. Keep in mind that I avoided using any thinner at all. If you use thinner then you will not be able to get the results as seen here. This paint is already as transparent as you need. Just spread it as thin as possible.